Crocs, cattle, and thousands of kilometres of corrugated dirt roads. There's some wild country in Cape York all right and it's packed with quirky one-of-a-kind wonders. Here, in no particular order, the savage frontier's top 10 lesser-known treasures. By Caitriona Murtagh

Cooktown, 430km north of Cairns, is renowned as the spot where a beleaguered Captain Cook pulled up on the banks of the Endeavour River to patch his boat after a bit of trouble on the Reef.

No page in history’s weathered log records whether the good Captain sought to drown his many sorrows with a cleansing ale.

And to be fair, the place was a bit short on pubs back then.

But if Cook were to drop in today, he’d feel right at home in the local RSL, lovingly nicknamed The Rissole.

Housed in a weathered Queenslander and packed with military memorabilia, including naval flags signed and donated by modern day emissaries of Her Majesty’s fleet, the Rissole is the perfect spot for 20th century castaways to while away an afternoon.

And a pot of Old will set you back just $3.70. Not quite 1770 prices, but not bad. Cooktown RSL, 127 Charlotte St, Cooktown. Phone 4069 5780.

Bramwell Station’s beer loving bronco.

At Bramwell, Australia’s northernmost cattle station, retired stockhorse Cheyenne doesn’t need to be led to water and urged to drink.

She’d rather try for a beer.

Gentle-natured Cheyenne regularly moseys into the property’s open verandah bar to greet patrons. After sharing a brew with your new equine friend, take a little piece of cattle country home with you in the form of that fine Far North Queensland product, the stubbie holder.

Your own stylish green cooler adorned with a steer skull will ensure Cheyenne knows whose beer is whose.

Bramwell Station Old Telegraph Line Track, Cape York, 4060 3300.

Archer River’s Russ Hinze Chair.

The throne-size wooden chair in front of Archer River Roadhouse is the stuff of legend. Built double-wide for big Russ during a visit while he reigned as minister as just about everything in the Bjelke-Petersen government, the seat now supports weary travellers tucking into hot chips and cold drinks at the roadhouse.

No need to take turns. There’s plenty of room for two.

Archer River Roadhouse, Peninsula Development Rd, Archer River. Phone 4060 3266.

Rare birds and snapper dogs at Chili Beach.

A challenging drive over the windswept sandy heaths of the Tozer Range leads intrepid campers to tangled rainforest, fringing pristine beach and sapphire seas at Chili Beach.

The jungle is home to the shy and endangered eclectus parrot and the waters teem with snapper dogs.

That’s crocs to you city slickers.

At night, listen up for the giant reptiles’ distinctive bark as you drift off to sleep under the stars  a safe distance from the water.

Chili Beach campground, open dry season June-November.

Phone Queensland Parks and Wildlife on 131 304 for information and bookings.

Grunter’s Beastro Coen.

There are, it’s said, more feral pigs on Cape York than people.

Hairy snuffling pests are not everyone’s idea of a rip-snorting restaurant theme.

But Coen’s just-opened Grunter’s makes a go of it.

With a life-size iron cut-out of their razor-back mascot adorning the kitchen, husband and wife team Corinne and Richmond Scholz turn out the kind of meal that would sate the hunger of even the most ravenous pig hunter.

For those with more delicate tastes, they stock chilled Tim Tams and turn out a mean mango smoothie.

Grunter’s Beastro, 38 Regent St Coen, phone 4060 1003.

Paradise at Portland Roads.

At the end of the road leading north from Lockhart River lies the tiny community of Portland Roads.

There’s not much to do in Portland Roads except appreciate its bougainvillea garlanded hillslopes and gaze out at the South Pacific as you sip a cool drink from the Out of the Blue cafe.

You could fit in a spot of fishing. Or visit Lockhart’s famous Community Art Centre.

But really, who wants to make a move when you’re already in Paradise?

Out of The Blue Cafe, The Esplanade, Portland Roads. Phone 4060 7161.

Lakeland Downs

The outback has many charms. A decent cup of coffee, however, is not usually counted among them.

But at Lakeland Downs Coffee House you can top up your caffeine levels with a freshly brewed late, cappuccino, espresso, macchiato or even an ice-creamy affogato. Scientific fact: one cup delivers exactly the right amount of caffeine needed to confront the Cape’s thousands of kilometres of corrugations.

While you refuel, little ones will be thrilled to learn the Coffee House address is, really, truly, Sesame St.

Lakeland Coffee House and Store, Sesame St, Lakeland Downs. Phone 4060 2040.

Weipa Sunset

This is one for the photographers.

The sunset Weipa locals take for granted would make Peter Lik weep tears of pure salty envy.

For a bird’s-eye view of the sun’s slow descent over Albatross Bay and into the Arafura Sea bring your camera to the grassy waterfront at the town’s campground.

Watch in awe as an iridescent orb of glowing fluorescent pink and orange throws ghostly blue and eerie purple light across the horizon before the sky fades to star-dappled indigo. Weipa Camping Ground and Caravan Park, Kerr Point Drive, Weipa. Phone 4069 7871.

Cow mail from Musgrave.

No road trip to the Cape is complete without at least one close call involving kamikaze cows.

You can bet your life Daisy and Doris will amble in front of your bus or four wheel drive when you least expect it.

Write home to mum and tell her you survived on one of the fine selection of cattle cards available at the Musgrave Telegraph Station’s postcard stand.

They’ll sell you a stamp and pop your message in the next mail as well.

Musgrave Telegraph Station Road House, Musgrave, Peninsula Developmental Rd, Cape York. Phone 4060 3229.

Beer under a steer at the Quinkan Hotel.

The old Quinkan hotel at Laura was, by all accounts a fine establishment. Unfortunately, it burned to the ground in 2002. Luckily for thirsty travellers the old Quinkan has been replaced by new Quinkancomfortable, if a little functional.

But never let it be said that a watering hole on Cape York is without character.

The top spot for a coldie at the Quinkan is on a bench under shady foliage out the frontbeneath the sightless stare of steer skulls nailed to the tree trunks.

Quinkan Hotel, Laura, 4060 3393.

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