TRADITIONALLY the domain of British high society, high tea is enjoying a resurgence in Cairns, writes Robyn Rankin

Cucumber sandwiches with the crusts cut off. Dainty, delicate, delectable cakes that could be eaten in one mouthful, if one was so indelicate. All are served on high tea towers and with your choice of tea in luxurious surrounds.

Yes, it’s the comeback of high tea – that very British tradition that is enjoying a resurgence. The tradition apparently goes back to the late 1700’s when it was a very long time between meals – breakfast and dinner.

The Duchess of Bedford (1788-1861) allegedly complained about a "sinking feeling" in the late afternoon. Afternoon tea was her invention to keep her going until dinner. She would invite friends to join her for tea at 5pm.

Other hostesses quickly copied her idea.The tradition was cemented and exported throughout the British Empire. In the Far North the Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas has offered high tea since it opened in 1988.

The first five-star resort in Port Douglas was built as a vision of luxury by the infamous high-flyer Christopher Skase.

High tea has been an essential part of its offerings since then and continues to be a popular way to relax and enjoy the surrounds.But the manner of service has evolved, with the resort moving to bring individual high tea stands to guests about six years ago, compared with a staff member pushing a trolley around the lounge.

Most high tea clients are in-house guests, many who are at the hotel for longer stays and who often visit three or four times a year, says food and beverage manager Wayne Harris. Served daily from 3-5pm, high tea is in the Daintree Lounge, adjacent to the lobby with upper and lower lounge areas and offering views of the glistening lagoons, complemented by lush tropical gardens.

High tea towers are stacked with fresh scones with assorted jams and cream, a variety of sandwiches starring smoked salmon or egg, mayonnaise and lettuce plus an assortment of cakes and pastries including white chocolate mud cake, strawberry fruit tartlet, orange and poppy seed cake, apple slice and coconut cake.

The assortment is created daily by the resort’s own pastry kitchen and varies every 10-12 days, so long-stay guests can try something new.

At the moment, high tea is taken by up to 35 guests a day, partially comprised of a tour group that features the stop-off on its schedule.

Wayne says it is popular because of the lounge’s surrounds and airconditioned comfort."People who know high tea look for it so they know what to expect and they have high standards," Wayne says.

In a modern twist, clients make use of the fact the lounge is a wireless hotspot, so enjoy high tea and catch up on their emails.

He says a broad demographic takes high tea, mainly people in their 40’s, but also extending to younger visitors.

"Because we sell it for two, it’s a good relaxation – it creates sharing."High tea is a complementary service for platinum privilege guests.

It is $39.50 for two people (individual stands available for $19), bookings are not required for individuals but are for  groups.

Supping on tea or coffee and nibbling delicate sandwiches and cakes at Coco’s High Tea at the Sebel Cairns, in its almost colonial-like surrounds, is luxury personified.

The Lobby Bar surrounds are ideal for this laid-back "meal" and is perfect to while away a lazy afternoon or for a relaxed business meeting.

Served daily from 11am, high tea at the Sebel has embraced the best of tradition and added its own quirks.

Tea or coffee are standard and champagne is an option, while for something truly special, high tea after a spa treatment is the ultimate indulgence.Executive chef Lewis Taylor says the hotel’s own pastry kitchen, known for its delicate morsels on the dessert buffet, also create the high tea delights.

Originally from Scotland, Lewis has worked all over the world and one string to his bow is creating high tea for guests on a high-end train in his homeland."I’ve done some research on it and it depends on what the client wants.

In some places they have wontons and dim sims," Lewis says.

Each day 20 to 30 people indulge, but they have had one function of 200 participants, which was held in the hotel’s ballroom.

Customers indulge in high tea hen’s nights or birthday parties and sometimes even wedding receptions. Sales director Pauline Wagner-Carden adds that some business clients choose high tea as an alternative to meeting over coffee or lunch.

"They can take their customers somewhere a bit different to impress them," Pauline says. "And there’s a lot of walk-ins, which we weren’t expecting," Lewis adds.

"One time I was out here (in Coco’s Lounge) and there was a large group of Japanese tourists walking past and they just stopped out the front and watched us.

"Pauline said while high tea was more well known to more mature clients, the "younger set" was increasingly discovering the delights of this classy "meal".

And while the tea bag issue at Sebel is a contentious one, the pair say it is an element that is a work in progress and the hotel is trialling different teas and pots.In the meantime, those who request tea leaves will be catered for.

Even different dietary requirements are easily accommodated, so those who are gluten or lactose intolerant can take part, with a little forward notice.

High tea at the Sebel costs $17.50 per person.Silky Oaks Lodge & Healing Waters Spa at Daintree and Daintree Eco Lodge and Spa also offer their own high tea/Devonshire tea options.And, high tea is increasingly being served as a charity event.

There is Innisfail’s Art Deco high tea, female supporters of the Taipans have been treated to fashion and high tea and who can forget the fashionable fillies high tea, which has become a big component of Cairns Cup celebrations.Emma Lodge had never organised a charity event before last year’s high tea for the national Breast Cancer Foundation.

Held at the Shangri La Hotel on the waterfront, it wowed everyone involved who were all amazed at the venue, cakes and, importantly, the amount of money raised.Inspired by her friend Sharon Cohrs, who had been diagnosed with breast cancer, Emma says she wanted to do something that could help Sharon and others in her situation.

"I decided to host a high tea as it is something a bit different from the usual lunches, brunches and dinners. It gives ladies the chance to dress up for an afternoon in elegant surrounds with some beautiful food. The Shangri-La laid on an amazing spread," Emma says.

Last year, its first year, more than 200 people attended the Pink Ribbon event in the elegant surrounds and she said the food was still a talking point now, more than six months afterwards.

A tower of strawberries, dipping chocolate, handmade truffles, delicate cakes, a jazz band, auction, fashion show and guest speaker were all part of the elegant mix. More than $10,000 was raised last year and she hopes the 2009 event will be even more successful when it is held on October 25.Keep an eye out for more details closer to the time.

Sheraton Mirage Port Douglas, www.sheratonmirage.com.au or Sebel Cairns

Holiday in Port Douglas

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