52 Pubs in 52 Weeks: PJ O'Brien's is a home away from home
Edited by Isaac Egan, interviews by Laura Packham, photography by Stewart McLean
WITHIN an hour of touching down in Cairns, four Irish mates have quickly unloaded their bags, pulled up a barstool and are found sipping Bulmers beer at PJ O'Brien's Irish Pub.
Easing into familiar surroundings, Aaron Malloy admits it may be a cliche to find four Irishmen in an Irish pub, but it would make for an excellent punch line.
"We got to Gilligan’s (Backpacker Hostel), dropped off our bags and found the pub within 10 minutes," he laughed.
"You see the Irish pub, you have to go into it."
With hundreds of young sun-seeking tourists swarming through its doors each week, the traditional Irish tavern is arguably one of the most frequented pubs in town.
"It’s very backpackery, it’s definitely a party bar," PJ O’Brien general manager Mick Hasler says. "It’s a homely-style pub where people feel comfortable."
From noon to early evening, quiet conversation bubbles over the latest sports clash screening from colossal plasma TVs, as backpackers tuck into thrifty $12 meals.
A warm ambience hangs from its russet walls, which are covered with antique kitchen bric-a-brac and old-fashioned wares, all imported from Ireland.
But its shamrock charm soon changes tone after dark, as the tables are drawn away to make room for the dance floor that plays host to dancers and local bands.
First swinging open its timber doors in 1999, Mr Hasler – brother of founding partner John Hasler – says the franchise has been a hit from the word chug.
"It was the only Irish pub in town at that point so it was a busy little place," he says.
"The initial first couple of months were crazy – it just went off."
The brainchild of Paul O’Brien and John Hasler, the business has now spread to establish pubs in Melbourne, Adelaide, Sydney, and to the corner of Shields and Lake streets in Cairns.
Liverpool import and staunch "Guinness man" Jarrad Barlow is one of the pub’s longest-served patrons, casually dropping by for a laugh and shaggy dog tale for the past decade.
"It’s very down to earth here and it’s a pub," he says.
"It’s not like a club where all the pokies are and all that blah, blah, blah."
Taking a pew in the corner, football mates Mick Hamson and Brett Wilkins say they arrived to comply with strict self-orders to enjoy their break.
"We’re from Ulladulla in New South Wales – nicknamed Mulla-dulla because a lot of people smoke dope, or Ulla-dultery because people do tend to play up," Brett laughs. "We were walking past and my mother’s maiden’s name is O’Brien so we’re here. I just like the atmosphere and cosiness and the general feel," Mick adds.
"We walked in here and no one stopped to look at us coming in … then all of sudden you feel welcome."
Former head-chef Chris Malloy says nostalgia keeps him returning to his old workplace.
"It reminds me of a pub back home, it’s got the warm atmosphere and friendly faces and everyone’s really chatty," he said.
"It’s like everyone’s front room. You can just go in and have a drink and a laugh instead of going to a fancy wine bar and being a bit cliquey."
Businessman Colin Emmery, the pub’s self-confessed "general annoying person", says PJ’s is reminiscent of the British/Irish pub culture.
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Friendly for all: PJ O’Brien’s on Shields St is a popular and friendly gathering spot for Irish and other tourists. Picture: STEWART McLEAN


















